Faith in mountaineering now fully restored, after many recent washouts!
We ( Finbarr, Aoife, Fergus, Marg and self) hired a car at Geneva, and drove to the alpine meet in Saas Grund joining club members Cliona, Gerard, Andrew and Sarah, with Sandra and Dave arriving shortly after. There was a fair crowd of MI members camping in the sunshine, with Niall and family renting in the village. Some idiot came up with a plan to walk into the Amageller hut the next day, traverse the Dri Hornli Ridge, stay overnight, and do the traverse of the Weissmeis 4000m+ the next day. A bigger idiot ( me) thought it was a good idea. Reality kicked in when it took everything I had to make the hut, and the rest of the day to recover. Andrew and Fergus did the Weissmeis traverse, while Finbarr and self, with Gerard and Elaine and Sandra And Dave had a simply superb day on the Dri Hornli ( a cross between the Cuillin Ridge and Howling Ridge, but far better). The next few days saw the Allalinhorn, the Nadelhorn and the Jagihorn climbed, as we prepared for the Spaghetti extravaganza.
Friday saw Margaret and Aoife take to the TMR ( Tour de Monte Rosa), to trek to Gressoney from Saas Grund, while Sandra, Dave, Fergus, Finbarr, and self drove around via the St Bernard tunnel. Lifts took us to 3600m and a short trek to the Gnifetti Rifugi, which was jammed with people, it being the weekend. The atmosphere was jubilant and the food was fantastic!! In the morning we followed hoardes up the glacier, and Vincent Pyramid 4215m, Balmenhorn 4157m, Schwarzhorn 4322m, Ludwigshohe 4341m, and Parrotspitze 4432, fell to our weary tred, before we had to make the exhausting ascent to the highest hut in Europe, the Margarhita, at 4554m, atop the Signalkuppe. In fact the fourth highest summit in Europe is the toilet on the top (our) floor as there is a step up onto the throne. Thus, the saying ” I am going for the summit, and may be some time”. This exhausting day coupled with sleeping ( or not sleeping) at altitude, meant that we were down to three for the ascent of the Dufourspitze the following morning. We made the Zumsteinspitze in good time, but descending the knife edged snowy crest to the sattel was dry mouth time, and when Fergus’s broken wrist started to give him trouble on a down climb, we decided to give the alps’ second peak a miss, from that side.
The next day was the mighty Liskamm, and on Martin Moran’s recommendation we opted for the Cresta Sella. Getting to the satellite peak was unexpectedly tricky as the hot weather had melted any path of ascent, leaving steep ice, and necessitating placement of several ice screws. Getting down to the col looked problematic, and the ridge itself long and loose, so only two decided to give it a go. When the exhausted two returned down the ridge they were greatly moved to see that the other three had loyally stayed put to support them in their hour of need. It soon became apparent that the three were in fact stuck, the rope being much too short for the precipitous icy descent to the glacier on the other side, and the wise decision was made to remain put. Even with two ropes and placement of ice screws the descent was prolonged and tricky, with two abbs and a pendulum. 14 hours after setting out, the weary crew trudged onto the Quintino Sella hut. Amazingly, they were fed, despite being one hour twenty minutes late for dinner. I love Italy. This simply would not happen in France!!
Dave and Sandra decided to head down the next day, while Fergus, Finbarr, and self climbed Castor 4225m in just over 2 hours from the hut (about an hour under guide book time) then followed them down to Gressoney, where Marg and Aoife had just arrived . A fine celebratory meal out was had at the Flying Bra, followed by a rest day ( Dave and Sandra decided to go cragging but forgot to bring a rope), and the last day we walked over the Rothorn Pass enchanted by all the lovely alpine flowers we had denied ourselves by being up on the glaciers pretty much all of the trip.
Super trip, now I need a holiday…..

Our miserable climate continues to frustrate, with the midsummer Owey trip being the latest victim. A cold relentless wind, and 2.5 m swell made climbing a dangerous chore, the highlights of the trip being a fantastic meal cooked by Aideen, and a kayak trip around the east of the island on Saturday, when the sea had calmed enough to venture out on the sheltered side of Owey. Located a promising new area to climb, but that will have to wait!

Alfie, Mark and I met at the Small Crag above Murlough Bay on Saturday 16th May. It was a day of rain, hail, and strong cold westerly winds with intermittent spells of bright sunshine to help raise the spirits. Thankfully the rock stayed reasonably dry with the crag being east facing and the worst of the weather blowing over the top.
We climbed about 9 routes between us over the course of the day with Mark doing his first Fairhead lead. There where even a few other climbers about, a rare sight on the Small Crag.

So the wettest Climbfest has been and gone. Without the Foyle Arena we would have really been adrift. The Saturday ‘come and try it’ session was reasonably well attended and even better, dry. Then as they it was a game of two halves. Loads turned up at the wall and a big thanks goes out to Stuart and Bren who got the inductions done quickly and efficiently, thanks guys.
Sunday was as wet as forecasted so pretty much everyone headed to the wall and the craic was mighty. There are routes for all abilities and everyone was challenged by something.
Very few made it through to Monday but those that did were rewarded with a dry and sunny day [see photo] even if it did go off during the afternoon. Stars of the weekend were: Gerard O’Sullivan for completing the most routes indoors and out; George for giving the jamming masterclass and the superstar motivation award must go to Niamh Connolly for turning out every day including a dash to Belfast to buy shoes and a harness.
The best thing from the weekend though was that we managed to raise €1,000 to help the survivors of the Nepal earthquake. Thanks to all who donated gear and to those who bought items too.
Looking forward to next year already and I’ve booked warm weather – blue sky thinking.

Bravehearts 2015
All a bit last minute due to the unavailability of the new Hobbit van, but we managed to get booked into the MI accommodation at Inchree Onich for 4 nights, fired the stuff into the car and drove over on Tuesday. Wednesday, Margaret and I did Buachaille Etive Beg with a guy called Russell, as a warm up,( a Munro I had not done before, so not bad for a warm up I suppose). Snow was good but nil visibility!
Met up with Keith and Sandra for Thursday, and Margaret prevailed upon us to do the Corbett on the South side of Lough Leven ( another Garbh Beinn 867m). Nice, and we stayed below the cloud which obscured the N side of the Aonach Eagagh, and the Mamores on either side of us. Alun Richardson did a slide show at night.
It was very sociable at the Inchree centre, and word had it that the Gr 2 at Sron a Lairig was in condition and a great outing, so Keith Sandra and I did it on Friday. No views again, but great fun with lots of variety, including a steep gully variation no one else had tackled. Dave and Sandra arrived.
Creise was one peak in Glencoe I had not done, so it was on the menu for Saturday, again with Keith, Sandra and Dave ( very nice of them as they had done it before). The snow had suddenly sugarified so gully plans were shelved in favour of some nice hollow ice ( Sandra loved it) and mixed rock and snow ( and cloud). The snow improved higher up and the last step to the top of Sron a Creise provided some excitement, before exiting up the crunchy neve on the top. Onwards to Creise, descent, and re-ascent to Meall a Bhuiridh. Took the ski lift back down, just in time to watch Ireland beat France on the telly in the Onich Hotel. All very satisfactory indeed! Topped it off by a St Valentines meal for 6 in the hotel with a happy wife who had just claimed her 72nd Corbett, with Sandra (Kennedy).
On Sunday we were starting to head back. The others had plans for the Aonach Eagagh, but Corbett duty called again so we went South to Glen Lochy to claim the scalp of Beinn Chuirn. The old knees were starting to feel the strain of 5 days solid toil, and the terrain was steep, but at least it was clear ( I always get a good day arriving in Scotland and good day leaving, it’s the bit in between that’s the problem).
Dave and Sandra had kindly offered us accommodation for the night in their new bothy, so we made our way there. They had wimped out of the AE Ridge on the somewhat spurious excuse of food poisoning, but treated us royally in their fabulous new residence ( no resemblance whatsoever to the bothy referred to above) with a superb meal cooked by Sandra ( joke, it was Dave). Thanks to both of them.
Home… A great trip!

The weather had smiled upon us once more so Marty, Alan and I headed back to Muckish, this time with an eye for Divided Loyalties. Having seen it on Sunday we thought the cold snap would have produced some build up, but sadly not.
After some manoeuvring with Marty’s van we arrived at the start of the miner’s path and decide to ditch the original plan. It just looked too lean. And so it was that we headed off once more for god’s own gully. It was still the only route in condition.
Once again it provided great entertainment all the way. This time it was much more relaxing without anyone ahead of us, particularly someone without axe or crampons! The snow again was in great condition and the icy step providing a bit of interest and the top snowslope a great sense of exposure.
Marty was keen to do more so we traversed along the escarpment and descended just to the right of the colossus pinnacle. This gave us a close view of the summer possibilities. The fresh snowfall over the Monday and Tuesday had added a good deal of unconsolidated snow into the descent so some wading was called for.
We traversed along the base of the crag to a line of Iain Millar’s just right of Divided Loyalties. Sadly this was not in as good condition as the first. Although it looked good it was full of powder. At this point Marty had enough of carrying his sack and threw it away down the slope. Luckily his camera was in his hand and a banana was rescued from the snow! A lot of cursing of the soft snow brought us up to the final snowfield but it really was a pale imitation of the first gully, but a good excursion. Not recommended just now. Maybe God’ Own gully does deserve the title.
We descended the miner’s path and were surprised at the amount of snow that had banked it out since Sunday. Alan and Marty traversed back to retrieve the sack and we all headed back to the van. A great day out.

Geoff and I left NWMC to climb Muckish from the gap, and drove around to north side in the hope of some sport in the gullies. First impressions were not good, with the north face swept clean by recent gales, and snow thin on the ground! We followed three guys up the miners track, one of whom branched off to the right, in the direction we intended to go. The ‘Funnel’ had no snow in the chimney and looked more like a rock climb. So we continued past it, into the grandly named ‘Gully of the Gods’ following the lone figure ahead. The loose hail on the slopes became snow- ice in the gully, and as we donned crampons, we looked on in amazement as the ice axeless and cramponless figure above kicked his way up the gully. The hard snow/ice became icier, and still superman remained ahead kicking half inch toe holds into the neve, and avoiding the pure ice by stepping on protruding rocks. It was solid grade 2, with short vertical steps lacquered in thick green ice, and above a steep slope of hard packed snow to the rim. Our ice axes bit in beautifully, and calves groaned as we approached the top, watched from above by batman. Batman’s name was Andrew, from Derry, mightily relieved that he had survived this gully,( that he had done the previous week with no problem at all). Conditions were entirely different this Sunday!
We met up with the other two, and then North West MC at the cross. Lovely conditions (temporarily) on top, made lunch a pleasure, and then we headed down, meeting Kevin Magee plus dog en route. A *** day.

With everyone arrived the weekend started with a club meeting over a few pints of the black stuff. Starry skies over Achill promised a good day ahead.
An early morning round of golf was called off due to sheep on the course, so we headed to Lough Acorrymore reservoir, planning a days hike over Croaghaun and out to Achill Head.
After skirting the lough to the west and rising to the corrie above we split into 2 groups. One headed for the summit up the back slope of the corrie, passing the wreckage of a crashed airplane enroute. The other group enjoyed some good scrambling up the rocky flank of the buttress on the north side of the corrie. (Good call Alan.) Both groups came together to summit Croaghaun (688m) and enjoy the spectacular views afforded by the good weather (For January).
Pushing SW along the clifftop we summited the SW peak (664m) and after lunch descended the steep slope to the col between Croaghaun and Benmore. A short hike uphill to the NW brought us the the start of Achill Head. Although windy, the scrambling and views out & back along Achill Head ridge was well worth it. A hike along the top of Benmore cliffs and descent to Keem Bay finished off a great days walk.
In the evening the Haggis was toasted by Dennis and then drowned by one and all, accompanied by the musical talents of Gerry and Alan.
A wet Sunday morning prevented much else other than a short walk to see the 8th wonder of the world, Achill Henge.
Great weekend in a beautiful place and I’ll definitely be back.

Damian.