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Sierra De Gredo -a Personal Trip Report by Hugh McCann

This short article is to introduce “Sierra de Gredos” to the Colmcille Climbers.

In September 2024, I had the pleasure of spending two weeks in Sierra de Gredos, a mountain range two hour drive west of Madrid. My companions were Mourne-based climbers Kevin Quinn and Joe Rogan that I climb with at Hotrock and-the Mournes. Kevin has vast experience mountaineering in Ireland, Europe and the greater ranges.  Joe also has years of experience, and is always stoked to climb, indoors or on granite slabs throughout the Mournes.

The Gredos are part of the Sistema Central Mountain range that continues north of Madrid up through central Spain. The range is primarily granite rock with some black shale around Los Galayos; one of the 4 locations we visited.  The region has a wide variety of mountaineering opportunities including low level walks starting in villages, multiday refugio hikes, arrêtes scrambles, steep sports climbing, and our preference, multipitch trad climbing. All the guidebooks and information are in Spanish, however there are videos of climbs on YouTube and some sources are linked at the end. We were based outside the town of Arenas de San Pedro in a chalet-bungalow as part of a caravan-campsite, Camping Prados Abiertos. It is about a two-hour drive from Madrid airport. This sizable town has a tourist office near the castle, and this is another possible base having a selection of bars and restaurants.

Location of Sierra de Gredos (numbers are walks
Location of Sierra de Gredos (numbers are walks)

Over the fortnight we visited all four climbing areas: Villarejo, El Torozo (number 2 on map), Los Galayos(14) and Circo de Gredos (3 and 23) which I have described in detail below. Having a car is essential as there is virtually no public transport.

View from the campsite to Villarjo (right) and Torozo (left)
View from the campsite to Villarjo (right) and Torozo (left)

Villarejo

The first two days were spent at Villarejo, a big granite mountain with many walls.  Most face southwest, with 170 routes from 15m to 200m up to Spanish 7c but many in the 4+ to 5+ grades.  The 40-minute walk-in took us to some single pitch routes 30m in height and grades V to V+ with some 6a moves.  The belays are equipped with rings and there is an odd bolt if there is no natural protection for steep sections.  On the second day we tackled a 3-pitch route, Irene Castilla. Kevin climbed the first pitch in the afternoon sun, I followed up a rather blocky pitch, getting my first bit of exposure and then Joe led the pumpy V+ step onto a lovely slab pitch to finish. Arriving at the summit, vistas opened onto the walls behind with routes up very steep looking faces at apparently modest grades.

On our third visit to Villarejo, Kevin pointed us towards a 7 pitch “classic” (trad) 4-star route called Estaban Altieri, 180m of IV, V and V+ with a 6a option on the fifth pitch.  Estaban Altieri meanders up the face and where routes cross over the correct belay is identified by the route name stamped on the bolts- how civilized! The forecast was a high of 25C in the afternoon so there was a risk we would get baked like sun-dried tomatoes if we were too lax on early pitches.  Again, local climbers helped us find the start of the route, it seemed like they had all climbed it. Kevin led the third pitch.  With route finding, it was a bit more serious than previous V pitches.  The fourth pitch, a V+ with several bolts, was my lead but I was a bit pumped and offered it to Joe.  He overcame issues with route finding, often looking for the rock with the least lichen. 

Hugh starting off on Estaban Altieri. Photo Kevin Quinn

We had reached a belay at a big junction of several routes and the possibility of escape by short abseil to the right.  We had lunch and with a bit of high-level cloud protecting us from the sun we didn’t even discuss the opt out.

Kevin, standing boldly on a block above the belay, identified that the 6a option directly above was not preferred and moved out on a traverse to the right, then up.  Meanwhile another Spanish escaladore did opt for the 6a. He clipped the bolts at the belay and trapped my rope.  This meant I had to climb the direct 6a line and to free my rope from behind his at the bolts.  It was very steep with no positive hand holds so I ascended using the quick draws.  Joe easily led the next pitch(six), a V+ slab with a traverse on sparse gear. The guidebooks give a technical grade with no indication of other factors such as protection! I led the seventh pitch (IV-) which turned out to be a high-level scramble to the summit tor.  Small rock cairns indicated the way to scramble down to an abseil.  An hour later we were back in the car enjoying delicious ripe peaches.

Kevin on 3rd pitch of Estaban Altieri

El Torozo.

We tackled a 5-pitch route, El grand Deidre on El Torozo, a mountain west of Villarejo but part of the same massif.  Our strategy was to start early and avoid the sun-dried tomato risk.  Arriving at the base after a forty-minute walk-in, we heard English being spoken. They were Ester and Scott from British Columbia- the only native English speakers we met during our trip. El grand Deidre was heaven.  Dry, clean granite, pitch after pitch. It had a combination of trad protection and in-situ rings at the belay, with beautiful views down the Cinco villas valley. The Spanish climbers around us were friendly, offering beta on the route and other crags- their English being very much better than our pidgin Spanish.

El Grand Deidre

Another day Joe and I tackled an easy ridge that Kevin had climbed previously.  We set off from the road at dawn- again to avoid the heat in the afternoon.  There was some discussion about what gear to take.  It was described as a slab scramble with a grade 4 step.  Opting for a cautious approach we racked up at the bottom- harnesses and rock shoes on and alpine coils.  The first slabs were easy-angled which Joe, being well used to granite just walked up.  I was not so confident and sought out small edges, of which there were plenty.  The step was easy, not as bold as the first move on the Mauvais Pas on “FM” so we put the rope away and enjoyed the friction on the granite. The sun was out but the cool wind meant we had to layer up and sought the shelter of a boulder cave to have a second breakfast(10.30am).  The last section is a series of big blocks which present down climbing and route-finding challenges. We enjoyed spectacular views from the summit, especially across to our previous high point on El Torozo.

Traditional grazing on the walk to the refugio.

Los Galayos y La Mira.

The walk to Los Galayos is 2+hrs so it’s best to stay a few days in or around the hut, but our schedule didn’t allow it. Our plan was to walk in, climb El Torreon via a route on the south face and return to the car. We started with head torches before 7am. Two and a half hours later we arrived at Refugio Victory. It’s a basic hut with a guardian, a basic menu, floor space on the loft, water outside and no toilets. El Torreon is an obvious needle spike in the jaggy Los Galayos ridge on the right wall of the gorge.  Kevin asked a local climber that had bivouacked beside the hut “Would it be too hot on the south face?”  The reply “Not for Spanish but I can’t say for you”.  Considering my hips were complaining, the exposure on the summit, the possible heat on the face, I opted out of the climb.  After taking some photos, I headed off up a scree path to La Mira (2343m) on the plateau.  There are views back east to Torozo and Villarejo and west to the Circo de Gredos.  Arriving at the summit tower, a mother goat came to investigate if I would offer any scraps for lunch.  A family of Golden Eagles cast shadows on the plateau and Alpine choughs were screaming about the cliffs.

Mountain goat near the refugio.

Javier is the current hut guardian, also a mountain guide, he speaks incredibly good English.  Leaving the hut after a coffee, I heard familiar but distant voices.  Looking up I saw Kevin’s yellow helmet on the top of El Torreon.  They had made it!  Back at the car park, locals advised that a dip in the spring fed trough was part of the experience. Walk, swim and then beer!

La Laguna Grande y El Amanzor (2592m)

In the afternoon we walked from the road end car park at “La platforma” to Refugio Elola (1970m)-booking necessary. The walk took us past upland pastures with horned black cows with massive bells.  This fully serviced mountain hut uses the endemic, and extremely rare, Almanzor fire salamander which is black with yellow dots as its logo.

Kevin on summit of El Torreon

The Circo de Gredos is a rocky ridge reminiscent of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye. To reach the summit of Almanzor from the hut takes 2.5 hours of walking and scrambling.  The route to the summit involves a scramble with a grade 3 step but no need for equipment.  We found our way along the ridge by following the worn rock and picking out the next small cairn in the rocky terrain.  For those interested, it is known as a winter destination with a microclimate of alpine conditions for most of the winter.

After a long descent back to the car park. It was an hour’s drive back to the campsite, so we opted for a meal in the village of Hoyos del Espino.  This is a substantive town with several hotels and apartments, so it is a possible base for exploring the high valleys from the north. 

Sports craigs.

On lazy days we visited 2 sports crags with single pitch bolted climbs to the north of the range, so an hour or so from our base.  We also explored several “pozas”, pools in rivers which are either natural pools, or dammed during the summer months for swimming.  One in Arenas de San Pedro is a full-sized pool, equipped with ladders and lawn for sunbathing- unfortunately they drained it for the winter the week after we arrived!

Joe on a sports route- on a day off.

I really enjoyed the two weeks.  Thanks to Kevin for the introduction to the range and showcasing the major features for Joe and me.  I bought maps and guidebooks for a return trip.

Hugh McCann May 2025

Newcastle. County Down.

Our favourite swim pool. Photo Joe Rogan.

Here are some links which allow for more exploration.

Sierra de Gredos Regional Park | Fascinating Spain

www.areanasdesanpedro.es

www.turismoarenas.es and email turismo@aytoarenas.es

✅ Bienvenidos al Camping Prados Abiertos al sur de la Sierra de Gredos.

ReservationsLaguna Grande Refuge (refugiolagunagrandegredos.es)

Almanzor Fire Salamander | Citizen Conservation (citizen-conservation.org)

www.Desnivel.com is a publishing source for this region. Eg of guides

https://www.desnivel.com/librosdesnivel/senderos-de-gredos-30-excursiones-y-ascensiones-clasicas/

https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/libros/sierra-de-gredos-guia-de-escalada/9788498292848/

https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/libros/albujea-y-torozo/9788461737420/

https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/libros/riscos-de-villarejo/9788461616350/ and maps

https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/mapas/mapa-guia-deportivo-excursionista-de-la-sierra-de-gredos/2748/

https://www.libreriadesnivel.com/mapas/parque-regional-de-la-sierra-de-gredos/1202/

 

Example videos/blogs with routes and photos.

Amuso: Alto de los Corralillos y Torozo desde el Puerto del Pico (Gredos)

Torozo, Gran Diedro. V+, 220 m. D+ – Entre la Tierra y el Cielo – as text above.

https://youtu.be/GreYRz0J4RM?si=wLrZGCG9CjANFFmm

Amuso: Riscos de Villarejo. Punta Amparo: Irene Castilla (110m, V+) good intro to Villarejo

Amuso: La Mira desde Nogal del Barranco (Gredos) for walk in to Los Gredos.

Amuso: Almanzor desde la Plataforma de Gredos (Portilla del Crampón – Portilla de los Cobardes)

 

 

Fairhead Meet May 2025

Saturday 31st May at Fairhead… or is it Benmore? This is a follow up to Colmcillers at Fairhead Meet May 2024. This year for one reason or another there was no organised boulder field tour which was a shame as last year was my first time bouldering outside and the atmosphere was very positive.

I met George at the McBrides car park at about 9:30am. The weather forecast was not ideal. We headed to the Prow to check out how busy it was and decided to go to Farrangandoo (I’m not quite sure if this is pronounced Farran-gan-doo or Farrang-an-doo). We abseiled into the gully where Lazarus * VS 4c is located and heard the cry of a curlew in the distance. George was going to lead Jezebel * HVS 5b, the route right of Lazarus, however once the ropes were flaked out, for some reason I couldn’t remember how to tie into the rope.

It is amusing when one of those actions you’ve done for a few years just slips out of your mind, to the point where you can’t actually recall how to complete the action. It felt as if it were a muscle memory thing… I couldn’t help but laugh at myself. George made relative ease of his ascent. During my seconding I felt clumsy and unfocused. My feet slipped once or twice from the rock. It was either me, my resoled shoes, or the rock as George informed me it rained the day before. It was probably a combination.

It was now my turn to lead and I was ambitious to climb ‘something hard’ (despite the pumpy feel of Jezebel and my inattention…) So we went down the abseil again to climb Hard Rain E1 5b. It started raining during my lead. Water was beginning to pool on ledges and it was dripping down the thin crack crux towards the top. I hemmed and hawed just at the point where the route became more of a committing offwidthy crack climb. I couldn’t make my mind up on whether or not to commit and just go for it, but the rain was demoralising. Its effect on the rock made me question every foot placement.

After a suggestion from George I traversed right to the next route, Velocette VS 4b. It was a good idea because the lead up Velocette was terrible. When George was seconding he mentioned his feet were slipping off the wall at the small overhangy crux. Climbing in the rain is such a dismal affair. With grey overcast skies and being soaked, we headed back to the car park to get lunch.

Arriving back at the farm I met with David Walsh where he was selling copies of the club’s recent guidebooks, with the support of Sean McBride and the Dal Riada Climbing Club team. The guides were Inishowen 100 Best Rock Climbs: Colmcille Climbers 25 Years as an MI Club edited by David and Classic Rock Climbs in Ulster produced by Alan Tees and David. They feature a range of popular routes in Ulster with great photos. It was a joy to see the various folk pick up a copy for their future adventures.

Photo of David with Niall Grimes above.

The bookshop at the meet with folks queuing for the McBrides burgers (which were very tasty!)

About half an hour or so passed before George appeared commentating on the weather. The sun was back out and spirits were high, so we decided to go for another climb. I snaffled some pasta into me before we walked (back) over to the Prow. We went down an already set up abseil, which took us to the base of Mongrel Fox ** E1 5b. The rock looked incredibly dry considering the shower we experienced earlier and there were already a number of parties around the corner in the Ballycastle direction. Given this, George decided to give Mongrel Fox a go.

As he set off, reaching the part where the two parallel cracks appear, a climber came abseiling down the same line as the route. George held tight to let them pass. However shortly after this another came abseiling down. This was to become a pattern as the weather at that moment was sublime with blue skies, a little wind and glorious white fluffy clouds. George continued up the route moving between two cracks in a similar manner to Railroad *** E1 5b, dodging abseilers. There must have been about eight in total that came down, I greeted them all when they reached the bottom:

“Great weather isn’t it?”

To which they reply “Yes hopefully it keeps. What route is that?”

“Mongrel Fox” says I, “It’s meant to be one of the longest E1s at the Prow”

“Class!” they say, mostly in their young southern accents. 

“Good luck!”

“You too!”

Once George topped out I seconded. For me, the route felt similar to Railroad but a little steeper and required so much more jamming. The transitions between cracks required a bit more thought as well. Easily, my arms got pumped and I was getting a little tired of the practice of jamming in general. I’d had my fill. There was a lovely section where there’s a ledge over halfway up that has no jamming which provided a nice break to the whole activity. Further on and towards the final steeper section of the climb I was fearful of running out of energy trying to liberate an offset nut. Thankfully with patience and a poke of the nut key, it was released and the climb was soon after completed.

When coiling up the ropes and exchanging gear, George asked “What next?” I wasn’t sure given the state of my forearms and the impending dark, showery weather front looming over Ballycastle. I ate more food and we waited a little. What was blue golden skies, again, became dark and overcast with rain. So we decided again to head back to the car park.

Along the walk back we talked about the recent developments in AI. I decided to use a photo I had of Fairhead and pass it through AI to see what it generated (below). The other images were produced by AI as well, except the obvious ones that David provided above. The AI generated images are quite appealing images despite having not been created by a human.

Reaching the car park and then the camp site, the weather yet again was starting to clear up. After about half an hour and feeling slightly insane as a result of the endless rationalising about the weather, we decided for the final time to make a third trip into the crag that day. It was about 6:30pm at this stage. Though, there was a feeling that one could ‘manifest’ the good weather by looking up at the sky, followed by glaring down towards a bit of puddly wet rock at one’s feet. It paid off as we headed down the Ballycastle Descent Gully. The East face was dry, and golden with the sun on it. George suggested The Brat VS 4b and April * E1 5b (with a two star variation at the same grade). I chose The Brat given my poor foot work earlier (a good choice due to what was coming).

The Brat is situated beside the obvious pinnacle when looking down into the gully. It has a deceptive crack at the start which, if one looks around, can be avoided completely with some holds on the face. It was damp, green and slippy in the crack as well. Coming up to a mantle type move to complete the initial crack part, my foot slipped on a greenish sloper and I almost completely fell off. Thankfully there was a bomber hand jam at this section protecting me. After this there is a more enjoyable and thrilling crack section with just the right level of exposure followed by easier climbing to the top. Some of the rocks looked a bit dodgy and making a belay was a little so-so (there is a stake one can use). George followed and we called it a day before heading back to the car park.

I used the previous paragraph to generate this image above. Supposedly that’s me on The Brat.

Saturday’s talk that evening was by Hazel Findlay and Angus Kille. They talked about their background in climbing growing up. Their different approaches to climbing growing up and their approach today. They made commentary on UK and Irish trad climbing in general. Hazel also talked about her trip to Greenland with Alex Honnold. While, Angus talked about an incident where he (I think) ruptured three pulley ligaments of one of his pinky fingers… which sounds absolutely awful. They both mentioned on what it’s like to be climbers while raising a new born child before taking some questions at the end.

After the talk, there was socialising with Niall Grimes playing music in the barn. Shortly after this we headed back home to Belfast as we weren’t camping. Overall it was an interesting day with the weather being on and off. Similar to last year it was nice to see familiar faces and to share experiences with other climbers. It was great to climb routes I have not done before too.

 

Weekend at Fairhead

There was a strong desire to get to Fairhead after the weekend of the Malinbeg Climbfest 2025, as the weather was due to be good. So we decided to go to Fairhead on Saturday 10th May and camp overnight at the farm, continuing with more climbing on the Sunday.

On Saturday I climbed with Fiona, James and Emi (non CCCers). The routes we climbed at the small crag were Spinola * S 4a (led by James and seconded by Fiona) and Pitchfork S 4a (top roped by Emi and I). The weather was excellent throughout the day.

Feeling inspired, at 4:30pm Emi and I started climbing (via alternating leads) An Bealach Rúnda *** E1 5b and topped out in the dark with head torches at ~11:30pm, before getting a chip in Ballycastle. The route, which must be right in the middle of Fairhead, requires a 100 metre abseil to get to. The climbing sort of feels like Girona *** VS 5a but… on anabolic steroids, and on the cusp of being completely out of control by having an enormous detached pillar, and a feeling of exposure. A real adventure.

An Bealach Rúnda

The following day I woke up feeling as if I were implicated in some kind of car collision. Undeterred, I met up with George and we went on to climb (alternate leads) December ** HVS 5a in the Binnagapple area. Afterwards we headed East to the small crag to do Plan 9 from Outer Space * HVS 5b (a fantastic lead by George given its short lived brutality) and Santana VS 4b (led by me). We called it a day after this and I met up with the others before heading back home.

George's amusing gully approach to Plan 9 from Outer Space

The photo at the top of this post was taken at ~9:30pm while at the top of the second pitch of An Bealach Rúnda. It was quite nice watching the sunset over Rathlin island. The blank face to the left is home to An Bealach Eile *** E8 6c. I assumed while at this belay that the empty face couldn’t be climbed given it’s featurelessness. I only figured out that there was this ungodly E8 living in it when was glancing over the guidebook after the weekend.

A cautionary Tale – Katabatic Kayaking on 12th Jan 2025

Swells 0.2M was the forecast, and it was mostly right.  That persuaded Iain Miller and I to shun the choice of landward approaches to the Music House, in favour of a leisurely paddle in, to get photos for forthcoming guides.

My wet suit could not be found, but neoprene shorts and jacket would do, (and they did).

The paddle into the crag, and beyond, to look at the Cathar Castle, was pretty idyllic, but half way back across the bay to Dungloon, the weather took a dramatic turn, with a sudden offshore gale. I was nearer the coast than Iain, (who was a bit behind me, taking a more direct line to the Galleon Sea stack), and decided  to head for the beach, rather than further exploration in deteriorating weather.

The problem was, I was unable to turn the boat, such was the force of the wind on my left hand side, the best I could do being straight ahead paddling hard on my right hand side.  This meant the left paddle blade was out of the water, catching the gusts and nearly pushing me over.  This, with rising waves and flying spray running out to sea, was destabilizing and driving me off offshore. I was still on course to meet the headland, but increasingly further and further out.  I lost sight of Iain, due to the spray, and survival mode took over.

I battled my way to a rocky and bouldery shore, and mercifully found a half sheltered area where I could run the kayak up onto the boulders and clamber out, pulling the boat up after me, (losing a shoe in the process).  On the rocks, I could hardly stand up in the gusts.  Clambering onto higher grounds, concern for Iain took over, but I couldn’t see him anywhere.  With only one wet shoe, I made hard work of the climb up the zig zag path, especially on the brambles and blackthorn.  From the heights of the headland I could scan a, now calming, sea, but still no sign of Iain. 

The path out onto the road was a brambly jungle, and not easy in bare feet.  Stopping at the first house, I told the male resident that I had lost my companion.  Phone the coast Guard? Yes, No, Maybe- if in doubt- yes, put them on notice until I check if he made it back to the shore ( I am sure he has survived worse than this, probably).   If he is there I will drive back up and call it off.  I ran (one shoe off one shoe on) down the road to the van, but no sign of Iain.  The resident arrived after, looking for instructions and some further detail of the missing person/kayak. He went back up to his house to ring the coastguard again, while I got dressed.  He arrived back down just in time to see Iain clambering along the coastline, and a big rescue rib entering the bay.  Seconds later the coastguard arrived in force in a couple of crewcabs.  Ammm, the missing person has just turned up, embarrassing, but they didn’t seem upset.  The second time I have called them out, I wonder do they do loyalty cards?

Iain had been on a parallel trajectory further out to sea, missing the end of the headland, but when he passed the Galleon, he was sheltered under its cliffs and the water was calmer, allowing him to paddle into a bay, and stow his kayak. He was no distance from me, but behind a promontory, so couldn’t be seen.  As he started back, he came across my boat up on the rocks, knew I was safe, and tried to ring me.  My phone was secure and dry (at home! –  Lesson there).

A Katabatic wind is when a mass of heavy cold air avalanches downhill off high ground displacing the warmer air, in this case over the sea, a sudden off- shore storm, fierce but brief, and probably caused by the recent spell of unusually cold weather.

Secretary’s Report for 2024 AGM

It  has been a year full of activity since the 2023 AGM November 4th in Newcastle. Club Membership grew to 64,  with 44 Full and 20 Associate members.

3 Mountain Log editions had entertaining articles from Club Members – Ronan and Fiona  on the Alpine Summer Meet 2023, Anthony on Kashmir Expedition 2023, Alan’s quirky  Everest Diary 2074. Plus we have the new  Inishowen 100 Guide by David. Andrew  had an article on Kashmir 2023 accepted by the Himalayan Journal.

There were 12 official club meets plus the regular Wednesday Wallies coffee/climbing club.

The first meet was in November. 5 Cillers did a Muckish Miners Path clean-up. Alan’s write up made the news & a Highland radio interview ensued. A budding influencer?

In early December on the annual Wassail Abseil, a bouncy gang of 6  & 2 dogs overnighted in a Glenveigh ”bothy”. There was a fire, music, song, craic, beer, whiskey…. a somewhat less bouncy gang (dogs excepted) abseiled the next day, along with new clear headed arrivals Sean and Martin.

The Lynam Lecture in Dublin by Calvin Torrans had several of our members there.

A storm forced the January Connemara Winter trip into a windy Maghery Beach hike, led by locals Anne and Ronan O’Murchu.

In February-March  many got onto the snow in Scotland. On separate trips were Philip (for a month!), Abe, Keith and Neil. Rian was up Errigal’s Tower Ridge. There was a Ciller ski trip with Valli as guide to a wonderful ski area around Saas Felden, Austria,. Of note was Anthony’s remarkable graceful slow motion arret with knee twist.

In warmer climes, spectacular climbing spot, Caminito do Rey, Spain, had an  invasion of Irish – many Cillers  (Alan, Finbarr,  joined Jack Bergin & Robert Marchant plus Jackie, Helen, Maeve. Gerard O’S) . The few left here were out in the Bluestacks or Mournes.

The first Spring summer meet was an April recky of Port Na Sionnach, Inishowen . A terrific day’s climbing was had there a few weeks later in fine sunshine. Martin climbed in Srahalong Valley, Mayo while Abe opted for Cabeco D’Or, Costa Blanca. Thanks to Sean & Philip who did some Culdaff cleaning.

The Arran Island April trip had great weather for PJ, Anthony, Nigel, Rob and  Martin & included a scramble on A Chir Ridge Glen Rosa. A May. excursion to Scotland of Sean, Finbarr, Martin and Alan were in Lochaber, and climbed North East Buttress and Observatory Ridge on the Ben.

May Climbfest had a great turnout at Malin Head with camp at the Seaview Tavern. Now an international event with a  Welsh team of 5 led by Geoff, Tim from Kent plus climbers from Sligo, Claire, and Dublin. A  good number of new associate members were recruited. The super Inishowen 100 guide by club scribe David Walsh was launched (not to be confused with the other author David Walsh also in attendance).

Over the summer, there were a few mid-week Inishowen evening  climbs at Finbarr’s Wall & Dunowen & Port Na Sionnach, Leenan including various members such as Lisa, Jack, myself, Alan, David, Sean, and Finbarr. Tees adventure tours included a Cave of Lights on the Leenan outing. Port Na Sionnach was the scene of Sean’s agony hair-pulling atop of “Holy Mother of Jesus Get me Out of here”

Alan and returnee Marty were also out around Inishowen including the Music House. June 19th Sean and Alan climbed the almost forgotten classic Catriona, in Glenveigh, surviving man eating ferns and ticks, but good climbing in the upper half and a new variation done.

Fiona & Ronan were out at Dunseverick. Martin was very active in Mayo with climbing pal Ales Soucek at Kilary crag and Knock roadside crag & Srahlong Valley.

Further afield Rian climbed Gran Paradiso, Aosta Valley. Keith narrowly missed a devastating deluge in La Bernarde in Ecrin.

June 1st Martin Boner hosted a meet in Connemara (postponed from January). A fabulous sunny weekend. Day 1 was a hike up Allebaun, a lough Glenawough dip, a  Beck scramble, & a slab climb & scramble on Intermediate of Joss Lynam. An overnight at Lenaune, then hiking & a new Martin route on Barrslievenaroy, Galway. Next day Alan & Martin did an amazing slab route in the Srahnalong valley. At the same time the Club campsite was getting a makeover:  Valli transformed the Rope Store with fabulous climbing murals, Anthony never looked happier in a digger creating a drain with support from PJ & Gerry.

The same weekend there was the Fair Head Meet. It has a great write up in the Club website from Ronan.

June 28 Tory Island trip gathered a dozen of all ages! It started with a gut wrenching  crossing. Bike-towed gear bags & a great camp spot on a NW cliff with handy beach & resident seal present all weekend. Jack & Lisa joined with their youngsters. Top entertainment came from boy band Pol, Paul & Alan. A new route put up by Alan, Tinneas Na Mara. Also sea dips and hikes around & the stunning spur of AnEochair Mhor.

Philip climbed at Bosigran Penzance getting back after a shoulder injury.

Aug 10th George Beaumont hosted a great Wicklow meet. There were more Man ( and Woman) eating ferns and ticks, and a lesson in humility at Luggala on Pine Tree Buttress (which also has a lot of gorse & a tricky holly tree). A few climbs were had on Day 2 at Glendalough. The same weekend Paddy, Frank & Martin headed to Achill Beg & climbed a sea stack & one other route on loose rock. Fiona & Ronan climbed  in N Wales. Hugh & Les were out in the Mournes.

Super fit pair Andrew and Sarah had also ran the arduous Art O’Neil Challenge  In the summer they ran the Laugavegur Ultra Marathon, from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk/Thorsmork (55km). Then they went to Skogar and walked the Fimmvörðuháls (Fimmvorduhals – Five Cairn Trail) back to Thorsmork (32km). Next they travelled up to the Western Fjords & explored Hornstrandir & sampled various hot springs

Late August was a Club trip of 9 to Espot & the San Maurici National Park in the Pyrenees some in 3 campers. Of note – a  via Ferrata at Baquera Baret was completed without gear! The highlight was climbing the wonderful Grand Encantat.

September16. An IMC group came to Malin Head & 5 Cillers joined them. The forecast was terrible. Worse, there was a 2 day rave at the Seaview (which Neil said was good). Climbing switched to dry Port a Doris then a move to Culdaff camping.

Over the Autumn Abe was out on the Sturrel. Philip was very active  & did Classical Revival, Lough Belshade. Sean & Philip were out on Jims Jaunt, Hen Mountain.  Sean went a slip sliding  on Big Slabber. It was also a sad faced Sean at the Poison Glen which was wet & trippy. Myself and Alan climbed Heads Together at Skelpoonagh Bay, Glencolmcille. Nigel, PJ & Ant climbed at  Altnadue Querry, noted as a wonderful accessible bolted gem. Hugh was climbing & scrambling Sierra de Gredos, Spain for 2 weeks (& he is making a report for the club on it).

October 12-13 was the Sligo MI meet with 10 Club members. We had a fine hike & abseil at Kings Gully with 4 climbing clubs represented and a morning climbing happily at Happy Valli Crag. Great to meet Sligo climbers Josef and new club member James on these outings.

Recently “two of Derrys finest Sperrinists” Sean &, fashion icon, Finbarr were in the Bavarian Alps & had great hiking up the Hollental and the Alpsitze. And Martin & Ales climbed at stunning Arco Italy.

Hopefully this coming year will also bring plenty of opportunities for climbs, hikes, kayaking, coffee and craic!

Mountaineering Ireland October Get-together Sligo 2024

Many assembled at the Great Southern Hotel on Friday.  I was rescued from an historic tour of the town, (and hypothermia), by the arrival of Jack Bergin and Carol from Waterford, to the warmer recesses of Hargadon’s Bar. A pleasant evening in the hotel was followed by a day out on Kings Mountain on the extraordinary Annach Re Mhor.  We were a diverse bunch of climbers from Belfast, Sligo, Waterford and of course Colmcille CC. Most had not done it before, and it was as impressive as always.  We finished up Ireland’s shortest Via Ferrata, a broken decorators’ ladder out of the bowels of Alt Na Ceo. 

I went to the Q and A session at 6.30, so missed the Munster, Leinster Game. Didn’t miss much apparently- according to a Munster man of course. The dinner at night in the hotel was well attended.

The forecast was OK for Sunday morning, so we headed for Happy Valli crag, where Colmcille Corner was climbed, Ronan led ‘Higher In Time’, Peter Cooper’s HVS, Poltroons got a rattle, and Margaret Quinn got her money’s worth out of Snow White  (only after I had fallen off it!)- grade needs looked at Severe 4b methinks. It was dry and cold, but turned wet, as predicted, after lunch.

Good to see the club so well represented at an MI event, with the chair and Honorary Sec both there, and about 10 ccc members/associates in total. It was great to connect with Sligo Climbing Club in particular.

Clearly, climbing is thriving in NW Ireland.

Club Chairperson, Ronan Duddy climbing in photo below on “Higher in Time”.

Pyrenees Summer Meet 2024

To The Enchanted Mountains.

A personal account from Alan Tees.

Photo: Gully on Gran Encantat

Thursday 22nd August  We drove to Waterford to stay with pals  -mountaineer Jack Bergin and his partner Carol. It was painless, except for getting through Waterford City. Jack was not in great form over the death of his friend, climbing pioneer Stephen Gallwey.

Friday 23rd August We had a day to kill, while Jack and Carol attended the funeral so we visited Hook Lighthouse, Tintern Abbey and had a nice lunch at Kilmore Quay, but we were far too early for the boat at Rosslare and did not get on till after midnight. We met up with PJ, Anthony, Valli and Nigel.

Saturday/Sunday 24th/25th August . Now at sea, we  had a meal in the restaurant on Sunday. Though first there at Rosslare, we were the last off at Bilbao. We caught up with the others at Arenas for coffee and a swim. Then we drove to Jaca to overnight in a Campervan carpark.

Monday 26th August. On to Torla, a nice site. The others were active, but we spend most of the afternoon in a bar waiting for the tourist office and shops to open.

Tuesday 27th August. There was a long queue to get the bus into Ordesa/Pradera. A great (and full on) day : along a ledge, very high up, and down by a Via Ferrata (sans kit). Valli and Margaret Tees did a similar traverse, but lower down. Beers followed then a bus down.

Wednesday 28th August. The others left. We had a lazy day.

Thursday 29th August. We left at 7.00am for Espot in the Pyrenees. Ainsa, Campo, Leidha. We arrived Espot early afternoon. Margaret Quinn, Derek and Martin were already there.

Friday 30th August . The original plan to do the Amitges changed as Margaret Q was not well from a nasty reaction to antibiotics. Instead myself and Margaret T did Pic De Ratera 2862m. It was a long enough day, ended with a meal out. The others were well pleased at getting the Gran Encantat 2749m.

Saturday 31st August. A rest day. We shopped in Sort, down the valley. ‘A’ team did Agul D’ Amitges. Not impressed, as they geared up to the nines for a hill walk! ** Note for Ball Bearing Award.

Sunday 1 st September. Walked a GR 11 to Estais with Derek and 2 Margarets . We met Valli on the bike. We had tasty lunch in Espot.

Monday 2nd September. We took the Jeep to San Maurici lake, and Margaret Q and I did the Gran Encantat. It was 41 years since the last time. We met climber Felix from Alicante and shared the descent. I was well pleased, and so was MQ.  Margaret T and Derek walked up the Monastero Valley and we met back at the Rifugio Malafre for beers,  coffee and cake.

Tuesday 3rd September. A wet morning. It cleared up in the afternoon but the forecast was not good. Time to leave?

Wednesday 4th September We left. Made it back to sunny Culdaff 10th September via rainy stop-offs through France.

 

IMC visit to Malin Head September 2024

The forecast was poor to dire. Even worse, there was a 2 day  Rave at the Seaview, so no climbing and no sleep either.

Margaret Quinn and I joined them on Saturday, at Port a Doris.  It rained on the way down but miraculously stayed dry pretty much all day, though it was windy.  We did a route on Toby Jug Wall, then Crack a Toa.  The exit still isn’t nice on this jem of a route, and consensus is that a bolted lower- off, (maybe 2 to cover the other routes) would be the answer.  Also, beware old abseil stakes, one of which fell to bits at the top of Toby Jug Wall.  There are Titanium bolts there now.  A welcome pint in Rosatos Moville followed.

On Sunday the forecast was better. At Malin Head David Walsh(Snr) had already put up ab ropes, so climbers were already active when I arrived at 10.30.  I was teamed up with Elaine by Phillip, and did Carbolic Crack, then Cutting Edge, but the seas were so big we didn’t ab down to the bottom.  The 100m ab rope had got washed into the sea and jammed, so it has been abandoned by the IMC, and we can have it.  It needs an ab to the bottom cut the rope and retrieve the rest.  Good condition, so it is!

We went to Malin Laundry East, where I volunteered Elaine to lead Niamh’s Route.  It was lethally slippy, and fair play to her for getting up it.  Niamh’s vengeance? All the routes here were wet and greasy from the sea spray.  We had coffee at the van and the parting of the ways.  All seemed happy with the weekend.

On Friday, Jack and I climbed Ballyharry Buoy.  Needed a bit of a clean for a photoshoot

Colmcillers at Fairhead Meet May 2024

Report from Ronan Duddy, Club Chairperson.

Photo taken by Hugh McC. Ronan (blue) on Lazarus, Emi (grey) on Pangur Bán.

Fiona and I attended the Fairhead meet for the first time this year, which ran from the 31st of May to the 2nd of June. Though we only camped for the Saturday night, we got a good variety of climbing done and met new people. It was a paid-ticketed event, hosted by the McBride family and organised by the Dal Riada climbing club. For us there were a lot of “not-
done-this-before” moments during the weekend.

Arriving on Saturday morning, we pitched our tent in a field belonging to the McBride’s family farm. There was the hustle and bustle of colourfully clothed people gingling about with trad gear on their hips and ropes on their shoulders; with tents, campervans and cars packed around the open field. The weather was sublime. Having got settled, we carpooled with our friends Emi and James over to Murlough Bay car park to attend the Fairhead boulder field tour organised by Rob Hunter and Veronica Lee. The walk into the boulder field was quite idyllic. Following the track down towards the sea and in front of the towering cliffs above, the trail eventually disappears into a sea of boulders. It was exceedingly hot and thronged with a horde of climbers exploring the boulders, like ants among bread crumbs. The amount of climbers was staggering.


Fiona and I haven’t bouldered outdoors before as we didn’t own any boulder mats. However, the level of excitement and enthusiasm from our fellow boulder climbers was infectious. Folks were very welcoming to let others use their mats to try a climb. Once one was attempting a climb, a cluster of human hands lurched outwards to spot one’s potential fall.  At times it felt as if there were over a dozen hands reached out from varying angles and places. The owners of the hands would shout encouraging statements to compel your journey upward. Aside from the vast array of hands, there were a vast quantity of boulder mats. These are required to protect potential falls at Fairhead given the hard jaggedy erratic-ness of the boulder field. There are plenty of places to lose an ankle as well. I cannot recall the names or grades of the boulders we climbed, as there was simply too much fun being had.

In the evening we attended a talk by Catherine Destivelle in one of the barns at the farm. Her talk was absorbing. She gave a general overview of her journey as a mountaineer, as well as her many achievements. She showed photos and footage of her adventures throughout her career, including her famous soloing feats which left the audience in awe. I believe the audience gave her a standing ovation. Fiona approached Catherine to sign her copy of her book, Rock Queen, and was well chuffed for the night. It was Niall Grimes, whom we had unfortunately missed on the Friday night, that encouraged Fiona to speak with Catherine. We complemented Niall on his Jam Crack Podcast and stated how often we listen to it on our way to new climbing adventures as it keeps us entertained!

On Sunday when queuing for a perky cappuccino from the McBrides wee coffee truck, I couldn’t help overhearing a younger group of climbers with southern accents talking about what they were going to climb. They were going to climb something at the Prow, maybe The Fence (VS 4c). This buzz was reflective of the mood throughout the weekend. There was so much exciting and lively banter floating about.

After my eavesdropping, I saw George C and Gerard O’S in McBride’s car park. It’s always nice to see familiar faces at a crag. They were heading to Farrangandoo, where we’ve never been before. This part of Fairhead is just west of the Prow and similarly requires an abseil. Due to the number of climbers at the meet, queuing for a climb was to be expected. We parted our ways as there was a fever to get climbing. Though Fiona, Emi, James and I left the camp site and headed for Farrangandoo sometime later because the fever hadn’t quite hit us yet.  As we walked over we could see perhaps half a dozen climbers hovering above an abseil. Seeing George belaying Gerard confirmed that we were at Farrangandoo. They had just finished climbing Lazarus (VS 4c) before heading off to the Prow to find a route less busy. George offered some valued info on the area with potential climbs for us which is always appreciated.

Our plan was for Emi to lead with James, and for myself to lead with Fiona. I recall myself  feeling queasy when thinking about what route we should tackle. Between the four of us we had a finite amount of gear, and because Fairhead is just so vertical, unforgiving and long, I didn’t want to run out of protection (who does?). George said “don’t psych yourself out” before he and Gerard headed to the Prow. Gerard also mentioned one way to get to Lazarus would be to abseil into the top of a gully and tie onto the abseil to belay from, given that it is a bit awkward to get to. Emi and I split the gear between us and headed down the abseil.

Reaching the base of the crag, Emi and James waited on their turn to climb Pangur Bán (HVS 5a). Fiona and I finally caught ‘go fever’ and decided to scramble up the incredibly steep grassy gully to gain the start of Lazarus, as it looked straightforward enough. However, as I was setting off, I could hear the voice of another climber speaking with Fiona politely saying something along the lines of “I don’t doubt his climbing ability but that’s a dodgy gully, be careful…” After climbing hesitantly three or four moves up this gully, looking around for any solid bits of rock to cling on to (and of course reflecting on the guy’s words), it dawned on me that I should rope up. The thought of soloing up steep, grassy and unstable rock for about 10 metres still gives me the shivers.

On belay, I climbed up the gully to discover Hugh McC beginning to second Velocette (VS4b). I wished him a ‘bon voyage’ while building a belay for Fiona. She climbed the gully and put me on belay, where we both agreed the gully was disgusting in concept and really shouldn’t be climbed. Abseiling down to the top of the gully would be a much better way to start the climb as advised. This coloured my ascent of Lazarus where I was convinced that I bit off more than I could chew. The ‘gully of doom’ experience, combined with an anxiety of llacking gear to climb the actual route, affected my mindset. I spaced out protection where I could and bumped up cams as I went. When at rests, I even went so far as to take out the previous bit of protection, bump it up above my current piece and reclaim the piece that was my most recent. “Just in case I need this later”, I thought… In reality I didn’t need it later and the climb was soon complete.

I belayed Fiona off a fence post (classy). This was also her first time using crack gloves. She loved them. We both agree that the gloves make the cracks a little more bearable, or accessible. I think this is because crack climbing is quite an un-intuitive style to learn. Gloves help. Fiona reached the crux of the climb, let out some Xena warrior princess battle cries and topped out. She collected five pieces of gear on her seconding which I couldn’t believe. A gregarious Italian climber named Mario congratulated me on this. Emi and James had also completed Pangur Bán which sounded like a good route. It’s meant to contain a good variety of climbing on it (face climbing, laybacks and cracks). We didn’t stay long after this and headed back home to reconvene with our civilian lives.

Overall the meet was great fun and a good social experience. It was nice to see so many climbers with such an enthusiastic and contagious desire to climb.

Climbfest 2024 at Malin Head

This year’s ClimbFest, was held from Friday 3rd May until Monday 6th May hosted at the Seaview Tavern and the main focus of climbing was at Malin Head. The venue was shared with a Camper Van Club and made the Seaview Tavern quite animated. The weather was good overall, and the tides states, swell and wind speeds were perfect for coastal crags in a spectacular setting.

Rather than providing participants with another T-shirt, the club published a guide to rock climbing on the Inishowen Peninsula. This guide book, called Inishowen 100 Best Rock Climbs, contains the top 100 climbs on the Inishowen Peninsula as selected by the Colmcille Climbers at the start of 2024. The guide celebrates the Colmcille Climbers’ Club’s twenty-five years as a Mountaineering Ireland Club. It follows the coastline, heading west from Port a Doris to Dunaff Head. Completion of all Inishowen 100 Best Rock Climbs is a challenge to any seasoned climber. The routes range in grades from Diff to E4, but mostly concentrate on the Severe to Very Severe grades. While Chapters 9 and 10 are dedicated to Malin Head, in reality anywhere in the guide was easily accessible from this year’s campsite area.

Route finding can be challenging at Malin Head as most of the faces are not immediately apparent from the shore. The area immediately below and just to the west of Banba’s Crown, called Banba’s Buttresss, provides lots of easy routes ideal for training and an introduction to rock climbing. Further west is Magdalen Wall, Washboard Wall, Laundries East and West, Fitzgerald Wall, and the Cauldron which all provide great climbing, and were a hub of activity over the weekend. The furthest west area, Sea Area Malin, is now no longer accessible, due to the landowner closing access with a view to rewilding the area.

Climbers started to arrive on Thursday and this allowed time to establish camp, set up abseils and top ropes. This year saw the return of Kent Climber, Tim King, and a contingent from North Wales under the leadership of Geoff Thomas. The North Wales team included Jayne Dalzell (the very important chauffeur), Liz Hewitt and Mel Hooper, who had been told how good climbing was in Donegal by Geoff.

The county Antrim, Down, Kent contingent arrived late on Friday morning and established base camp at the Seaview Tavern. It was a still, calm day with sunshine. They headed to Malin Head and started on Magdalen Wall, located just beyond Hell’s Hole. The wave platform was dry and the rock was warm to the touch; the tide was low giving excellent climbing. In such perfect conditions climbing on the Inishowen Peninsula is hard to beat. The two routes for the afternoon were Housemaid Direct, HS 4b and Tide Mark, HVS 5a. Friday evening around the campfire, with Alan Tees on his bouzouki guitar and Frank Nugent on vocals, saw a shift in emphasis from Trad Climbing to Trad Music.

On Saturday morning seven brave ‘Cillers’ journeyed to the beach for a ‘before-breakfast’ swim, lasting only five minutes in the freezing Atlantic waters.

The climbing started at the area just below Banba’s Crown called Banba’s Buttresss. This was an introduction to rock climbing session supported by experienced Colmcille Climbers—it allowed a sampler session for beginners of all ages. It was a great session giving many their first taste of outdoors climbing. The temporary fixed ropes allowed safe descent and top ropes were in place on a variety of lower grade routes. Alan Tees described the atmosphere as “damp with dry rock”. Further west and later in the day, The Cauldron Area was especially busy, with many climbers wanting to bag the classic routes Cutting Edge *** V Diff and the Prockagh Ridge ** V Diff.

The first ascent of Prockagh Ridge was recorded in 1939 by a group from the Youth Hostel Association of Northern Ireland (YHANI).

The weather remained pleasant but slightly overcast with favourable tides and low wind. Neil Dickson and Catrina O’Neill, who recently joined the Cillers, were at Magdalen Wall and were planning to do Carbolic Crack, before moving on to Laundry East to do Shipping News. Sligo Climbing Club members James Kelly and Laura McMorrow completed Galway Girl * S 4a.

Charlotte Azzopard, originally from France, but living in County Clare, had planned to visit Donegal but learned about the ClimbFest and decided to come along. Having completed Shipping News ** VS 4c, she described it as “a really nice crack”.

On Sunday Patrick Hughes and Mark Reynolds completed Rebel Yell HS 4b, doing it in 2 pitches. Andrew McClelland, George Beaumont, Tim King and Hugh McCann completed Claymore Crack, VS 5a. Fitzgerald Wall was very busy with routes such as Fine Gael, * V Diff and Sunningale, V Diff seeing much of the traffic.

Monday saw a change in the weather so some climbers elected to visit the Isle of Doagh in search of better weather. The approach from the Famine Village car park leads the climbers past some excellent bouldering routes, described in David Flanagan’s Bouldering in Ireland. The route for Monday was Sand Storm, VS 4c. The hardest part of the climb is the layback at the start followed by some bold climbing to the top. Afterwards there was time for some bouldering before the 2024 ClimbFest wrapped up.

 David S. Walsh

Photos  : Andrew McClelland and George Beaumont on Claymore Crack. Photo Tim King

Cutting Edge “Look Happy for the Tourists” and “Morning Swim” Photos David S. Walsh