Category Archives: Logbook

An entry in the CC logbook

Fun in the wet

As predicted the weather gave us about 1 day’s climbing in total over the 3 day ClimbFest weekend but those of us with a hardy nature (I’m talking about “hardshell tents” of course) stuck it out for the full term.

Friday was mostly spent in McGrory’s, Valli had a bit of a fire going but it was mostly too wet to want to hang around outside much.

A few people headed to the wall on Saturday but for the rest of us it was back to the pub after a initial couple of hours at Dunmore Head taking beginners and new faces up various routes, the old classics like Orange Blossom and Tina’s Crack being ticked off.

The table we set up for the Nepal collection did a roaring trade, I was as surprised as anyone to see my old jacket go for €50! Keith as usual was in top bargaining form, outdoing the empty-pocketed Marty to grab a cam for £20.

To avoid the driving rain a few of us gathered in Keith’s mobile were Keith and Marty tried to outdo each other’s music selection and the banter and slagging was hilarious. Top funny moment was us deciding to go down and set up Marty’s wigwam, for which he drunkenly gave us all instructions and then lined us up to exit the van behind him.

“You all know what you’re doing?”
“OK, follow me!”

He then proceeded to trip over the lip of Keith’s door and go spilling out into the night while the rest of us buckled in two. Only his cat-like reflexes kept him semi-upright but he disappeared in a half-bent run around the side of his own van, where he may or may not have succumbed to gravity. We were too busy howling with laughter to see.

Anyhoo, once the mirth had settled we got the wigwam upright, weighed down with stones and with the broken door sealed with the crocodile clips from some jump leads supplied by Niall. There wasn’t a dry being inside but the craic and the music were great nonetheless.

Sunday was actually a better day than Saturday but we’d all decided on visiting the new wall. Most of the campers packed up their sodden equipment that had taken a severe battering during the night, to the extent that some spent the night in their various cars. Big Paul showed me the inside of his tent which was literally swimming in litres of water. A trip to Borderlands was required for some dry clothes. My 2 boys and their mate fared better having been in the lee of the wind and in a sturdier tent but everything was still tinged with damp and was just packed with a pitchfork for later drying at home.

The new wall was top notch, everything I expected and more and I had aching arms after leading about 6 routes. George and Gerry seemed to utterly exhaust themselves too. The kids loved it too and I expect to hear them all clamouring to visit again in the near future.

Sunday evening was a quieter affair, again back in Keith’s mobile for more banter. Monday dawned with blue skies and PJ and I set off to do Rhumdoodle at Himalayan Wall, while the others pottered about at Dunowen. Our route had briars, grass, muck and loose stuff galore but we cleaned it as best we could, in sparkling form it’d be one of the top Severe routes in Culdaff to my mind. Just a pity about the grassy 5m exit.

We all gathered then to end the day at Brasil Rock and I got to do a few routes I’d never tried before, like Alan’s Expertees (HS) and Capgun Corner (S). The weather stayed fine and even my rucksack liner blowing into the sea and boobing off towards Malin couldn’t put a dampener on the day.

For such a miserable weekend I’m surprised at how much we did manage to climb and of course the craic was top notch as usual. Great to see you all again, looking forward to these Tue / Thu nights now.

Blue Sky Thinking

So the wettest Climbfest has been and gone. Without the Foyle Arena we would have really been adrift. The Saturday ‘come and try it’ session was reasonably well attended and even better, dry. Then as they it was a game of two halves. Loads turned up at the wall and a big thanks goes out to Stuart and Bren who got the inductions done quickly and efficiently, thanks guys.
Sunday was as wet as forecasted so pretty much everyone headed to the wall and the craic was mighty. There are routes for all abilities and everyone was challenged by something.
Very few made it through to Monday but those that did were rewarded with a dry and sunny day [see photo] even if it did go off during the afternoon. Stars of the weekend were: Gerard O’Sullivan for completing the most routes indoors and out; George for giving the jamming masterclass and the superstar motivation award must go to Niamh Connolly for turning out every day including a dash to Belfast to buy shoes and a harness.
The best thing from the weekend though was that we managed to raise €1,000 to help the survivors of the Nepal earthquake. Thanks to all who donated gear and to those who bought items too.
Looking forward to next year already and I’ve booked warm weather – blue sky thinking.

Annalong Buttress

We met in Donard car park on Sat morning (PJ went running instead and the McGees chose to ke). We intiially considered Eagle rocks but saw on the walk n that we would be in the shade and wind so instead persevered to Annalong buttrss, out of the wind and basking in the sun. There were 14 leads between 6 climbers of 9 routes with Minerva (HS) proving the most popular. Annalong is a great spot with the east wind blowing – a few of us got down to t-shirts – a good day out though the legs felt the walk in and out

Audacious

Just got back from County Down ( Hobbit snag list) and the Mournes in time to see Ireland get beaten by Wales and then go out with Geoff, somewhere- to Malin Head. Venue only decided at the other side of the Foyle Bridge. As it turned out it was a good decision, as we managed three new routes in the Laurentic Area. Audacious (after a wreck) Ajax ( after another wreck) and Navigatourists after the landowner who appears to have gone back to live in London (so might not be about much).

Bravehearts 2015

Bravehearts 2015
All a bit last minute due to the unavailability of the new Hobbit van, but we managed to get booked into the MI accommodation at Inchree Onich for 4 nights, fired the stuff into the car and drove over on Tuesday. Wednesday, Margaret and I did Buachaille Etive Beg with a guy called Russell, as a warm up,( a Munro I had not done before, so not bad for a warm up I suppose). Snow was good but nil visibility!
Met up with Keith and Sandra for Thursday, and Margaret prevailed upon us to do the Corbett on the South side of Lough Leven ( another Garbh Beinn 867m). Nice, and we stayed below the cloud which obscured the N side of the Aonach Eagagh, and the Mamores on either side of us. Alun Richardson did a slide show at night.
It was very sociable at the Inchree centre, and word had it that the Gr 2 at Sron a Lairig was in condition and a great outing, so Keith Sandra and I did it on Friday. No views again, but great fun with lots of variety, including a steep gully variation no one else had tackled. Dave and Sandra arrived.
Creise was one peak in Glencoe I had not done, so it was on the menu for Saturday, again with Keith, Sandra and Dave ( very nice of them as they had done it before). The snow had suddenly sugarified so gully plans were shelved in favour of some nice hollow ice ( Sandra loved it) and mixed rock and snow ( and cloud). The snow improved higher up and the last step to the top of Sron a Creise provided some excitement, before exiting up the crunchy neve on the top. Onwards to Creise, descent, and re-ascent to Meall a Bhuiridh. Took the ski lift back down, just in time to watch Ireland beat France on the telly in the Onich Hotel. All very satisfactory indeed! Topped it off by a St Valentines meal for 6 in the hotel with a happy wife who had just claimed her 72nd Corbett, with Sandra (Kennedy).
On Sunday we were starting to head back. The others had plans for the Aonach Eagagh, but Corbett duty called again so we went South to Glen Lochy to claim the scalp of Beinn Chuirn. The old knees were starting to feel the strain of 5 days solid toil, and the terrain was steep, but at least it was clear ( I always get a good day arriving in Scotland and good day leaving, it’s the bit in between that’s the problem).
Dave and Sandra had kindly offered us accommodation for the night in their new bothy, so we made our way there. They had wimped out of the AE Ridge on the somewhat spurious excuse of food poisoning, but treated us royally in their fabulous new residence ( no resemblance whatsoever to the bothy referred to above) with a superb meal cooked by Sandra ( joke, it was Dave). Thanks to both of them.
Home… A great trip!

Another Appointment with the Gods

The weather had smiled upon us once more so Marty, Alan and I headed back to Muckish, this time with an eye for Divided Loyalties. Having seen it on Sunday we thought the cold snap would have produced some build up, but sadly not.
After some manoeuvring with Marty’s van we arrived at the start of the miner’s path and decide to ditch the original plan. It just looked too lean. And so it was that we headed off once more for god’s own gully. It was still the only route in condition.
Once again it provided great entertainment all the way. This time it was much more relaxing without anyone ahead of us, particularly someone without axe or crampons! The snow again was in great condition and the icy step providing a bit of interest and the top snowslope a great sense of exposure.
Marty was keen to do more so we traversed along the escarpment and descended just to the right of the colossus pinnacle. This gave us a close view of the summer possibilities. The fresh snowfall over the Monday and Tuesday had added a good deal of unconsolidated snow into the descent so some wading was called for.
We traversed along the base of the crag to a line of Iain Millar’s just right of Divided Loyalties. Sadly this was not in as good condition as the first. Although it looked good it was full of powder. At this point Marty had enough of carrying his sack and threw it away down the slope. Luckily his camera was in his hand and a banana was rescued from the snow! A lot of cursing of the soft snow brought us up to the final snowfield but it really was a pale imitation of the first gully, but a good excursion. Not recommended just now. Maybe God’ Own gully does deserve the title.
We descended the miner’s path and were surprised at the amount of snow that had banked it out since Sunday. Alan and Marty traversed back to retrieve the sack and we all headed back to the van. A great day out.

God’s Own Gully

Geoff and I left NWMC to climb Muckish from the gap, and drove around to north side in the hope of some sport in the gullies. First impressions were not good, with the north face swept clean by recent gales, and snow thin on the ground! We followed three guys up the miners track, one of whom branched off to the right, in the direction we intended to go. The ‘Funnel’ had no snow in the chimney and looked more like a rock climb. So we continued past it, into the grandly named ‘Gully of the Gods’ following the lone figure ahead. The loose hail on the slopes became snow- ice in the gully, and as we donned crampons, we looked on in amazement as the ice axeless and cramponless figure above kicked his way up the gully. The hard snow/ice became icier, and still superman remained ahead kicking half inch toe holds into the neve, and avoiding the pure ice by stepping on protruding rocks. It was solid grade 2, with short vertical steps lacquered in thick green ice, and above a steep slope of hard packed snow to the rim. Our ice axes bit in beautifully, and calves groaned as we approached the top, watched from above by batman. Batman’s name was Andrew, from Derry, mightily relieved that he had survived this gully,( that he had done the previous week with no problem at all). Conditions were entirely different this Sunday!
We met up with the other two, and then North West MC at the cross. Lovely conditions (temporarily) on top, made lunch a pleasure, and then we headed down, meeting Kevin Magee plus dog en route. A *** day.

Achill Haggis

With everyone arrived the weekend started with a club meeting over a few pints of the black stuff. Starry skies over Achill promised a good day ahead.
An early morning round of golf was called off due to sheep on the course, so we headed to Lough Acorrymore reservoir, planning a days hike over Croaghaun and out to Achill Head.
After skirting the lough to the west and rising to the corrie above we split into 2 groups. One headed for the summit up the back slope of the corrie, passing the wreckage of a crashed airplane enroute. The other group enjoyed some good scrambling up the rocky flank of the buttress on the north side of the corrie. (Good call Alan.) Both groups came together to summit Croaghaun (688m) and enjoy the spectacular views afforded by the good weather (For January).
Pushing SW along the clifftop we summited the SW peak (664m) and after lunch descended the steep slope to the col between Croaghaun and Benmore. A short hike uphill to the NW brought us the the start of Achill Head. Although windy, the scrambling and views out & back along Achill Head ridge was well worth it. A hike along the top of Benmore cliffs and descent to Keem Bay finished off a great days walk.
In the evening the Haggis was toasted by Dennis and then drowned by one and all, accompanied by the musical talents of Gerry and Alan.
A wet Sunday morning prevented much else other than a short walk to see the 8th wonder of the world, Achill Henge.
Great weekend in a beautiful place and I’ll definitely be back.

Damian.

Awesome Tea-Breaks

Big day out for Colmcillers to Awesome Walls. Two cars were filled from Belfast with pick-ups at Sprucefield and Ardee, loaded down with picnics to fuel the many tea breaks. The plan is to make a regular trip once a month over the winter – at least until the Derry Wall opens!