Many assembled at the Great Southern Hotel on Friday. I was rescued from an historic tour of the town, (and hypothermia), by the arrival of Jack Bergin and Carol from Waterford, to the warmer recesses of Hargadon’s Bar. A pleasant evening in the hotel was followed by a day out on Kings Mountain on the extraordinary Annach Re Mhor. We were a diverse bunch of climbers from Belfast, Sligo, Waterford and of course Colmcille CC. Most had not done it before, and it was as impressive as always. We finished up Ireland’s shortest Via Ferrata, a broken decorators’ ladder out of the bowels of Alt Na Ceo.
I went to the Q and A session at 6.30, so missed the Munster, Leinster Game. Didn’t miss much apparently- according to a Munster man of course. The dinner at night in the hotel was well attended.
The forecast was OK for Sunday morning, so we headed for Happy Valli crag, where Colmcille Corner was climbed, Ronan led ‘Higher In Time’, Peter Cooper’s HVS, Poltroons got a rattle, and Margaret Quinn got her money’s worth out of Snow White (only after I had fallen off it!)- grade needs looked at Severe 4b methinks. It was dry and cold, but turned wet, as predicted, after lunch.
Good to see the club so well represented at an MI event, with the chair and Honorary Sec both there, and about 10 ccc members/associates in total. It was great to connect with Sligo Climbing Club in particular.
Clearly, climbing is thriving in NW Ireland.
Club Chairperson, Ronan Duddy climbing in photo below on “Higher in Time”.
Thursday 22nd August We drove to Waterford to stay with pals -mountaineer Jack Bergin and his partner Carol. It was painless, except for getting through Waterford City. Jack was not in great form over the death of his friend, climbing pioneer Stephen Gallwey.
Friday 23rd August We had a day to kill, while Jack and Carol attended the funeral so we visited Hook Lighthouse, Tintern Abbey and had a nice lunch at Kilmore Quay, but we were far too early for the boat at Rosslare and did not get on till after midnight. We met up with PJ, Anthony, Valli and Nigel.
Saturday/Sunday 24th/25th August . Now at sea, we had a meal in the restaurant on Sunday. Though first there at Rosslare, we were the last off at Bilbao. We caught up with the others at Arenas for coffee and a swim. Then we drove to Jaca to overnight in a Campervan carpark.
Monday 26th August. On to Torla, a nice site. The others were active, but we spend most of the afternoon in a bar waiting for the tourist office and shops to open.
Tuesday 27th August. There was a long queue to get the bus into Ordesa/Pradera. A great (and full on) day : along a ledge, very high up, and down by a Via Ferrata (sans kit). Valli and Margaret Tees did a similar traverse, but lower down. Beers followed then a bus down.
Wednesday 28th August. The others left. We had a lazy day.
Thursday 29th August. We left at 7.00am for Espot in the Pyrenees. Ainsa, Campo, Leidha. We arrived Espot early afternoon. Margaret Quinn, Derek and Martin were already there.
Friday 30th August . The original plan to do the Amitges changed as Margaret Q was not well from a nasty reaction to antibiotics. Instead myself and Margaret T did Pic De Ratera 2862m. It was a long enough day, ended with a meal out. The others were well pleased at getting the Gran Encantat 2749m.
Saturday 31st August. A rest day. We shopped in Sort, down the valley. ‘A’ team did Agul D’ Amitges. Not impressed, as they geared up to the nines for a hill walk! ** Note for Ball Bearing Award.
Sunday 1 st September. Walked a GR 11 to Estais with Derek and 2 Margarets . We met Valli on the bike. We had tasty lunch in Espot.
Monday 2nd September. We took the Jeep to San Maurici lake, and Margaret Q and I did the Gran Encantat. It was 41 years since the last time. We met climber Felix from Alicante and shared the descent. I was well pleased, and so was MQ. Margaret T and Derek walked up the Monastero Valley and we met back at the Rifugio Malafre for beers, coffee and cake.
Tuesday 3rd September. A wet morning. It cleared up in the afternoon but the forecast was not good. Time to leave?
Wednesday 4th September We left. Made it back to sunny Culdaff 10th September via rainy stop-offs through France.
The forecast was poor to dire. Even worse, there was a 2 day Rave at the Seaview, so no climbing and no sleep either.
Margaret Quinn and I joined them on Saturday, at Port a Doris. It rained on the way down but miraculously stayed dry pretty much all day, though it was windy. We did a route on Toby Jug Wall, then Crack a Toa. The exit still isn’t nice on this jem of a route, and consensus is that a bolted lower- off, (maybe 2 to cover the other routes) would be the answer. Also, beware old abseil stakes, one of which fell to bits at the top of Toby Jug Wall. There are Titanium bolts there now. A welcome pint in Rosatos Moville followed.
On Sunday the forecast was better. At Malin Head David Walsh(Snr) had already put up ab ropes, so climbers were already active when I arrived at 10.30. I was teamed up with Elaine by Phillip, and did Carbolic Crack, then Cutting Edge, but the seas were so big we didn’t ab down to the bottom. The 100m ab rope had got washed into the sea and jammed, so it has been abandoned by the IMC, and we can have it. It needs an ab to the bottom cut the rope and retrieve the rest. Good condition, so it is!
We went to Malin Laundry East, where I volunteered Elaine to lead Niamh’s Route. It was lethally slippy, and fair play to her for getting up it. Niamh’s vengeance? All the routes here were wet and greasy from the sea spray. We had coffee at the van and the parting of the ways. All seemed happy with the weekend.
On Friday, Jack and I climbed Ballyharry Buoy. Needed a bit of a clean for a photoshoot
My good friend Raja, (who has facilitated mountaineering trips to various parts of the Indian and Nepali Himalaya for Irish Mountaineers every two years or so), contacted me after Covid had done its worst, and said, “where would you like to go next”?
“Is Kashmir safe”? “Yes, Kashmir is stable”, but reading between the lines, I felt he would rather we chose somewhere else.
Having read a couple of Salman Rushdie’s books, I had been captivated with the idea of a visit for some years. The UK foreign office is still advising against travel to Kashmir, but there are many on-line testaments as to how beautiful the country is, and how safe and friendly the people are. No insurgent activity since 2019 apparently, (and being from Northern Ireland, we have certainly had terrorist incidents since that, and would never consider that our country was unsafe for visitors).
We would go, unless things went pear-shaped in the meantime.
September 2024 arrived in due course, and so to Srinigar.
The plan was put together following a recce by Raja. Avoiding the most popular Lakes Trek, we would do a 14 plus day trek through the Pir Panjal, climbing 3 peaks, Shin Mahinu, Tatakooti and Sunset Peak, all between 4000 and 5000m. It would be a first, and he had a contact who could provide everything we would need.
It started badly for Margaret and I, when British Airways cancelled our flight from Belfast to London, (and got much worse), but we caught up with the other 8, (whose travel went as planned), on day three, as they headed into the mountains. The mountains of Kashmir are unlike the other parts of the Himalaya that I have visited, being not as high, and heavily grazed, with spacious and extensive open pastures. Undoubtedly very beautiful with lots of alpine flowers, particularly Edelweiss. More like a mixture of Alpine meadow and the Mongolian steppes, with the less spectacular mountains not unlike those we have in Ireland or Scotland, except 3000m higher!
We started from Tosamaidan and two days later, chose to climb Shupnag 4400m rather than Shin Mahinu, as it looked more attractive. Despite a thunderstorm, the entire party summitted, and we trekked to Navkan Sar Lakes, Chaanz, and then to Dumail. Dumail is a stunningly beautiful spot and the base camp for Tatakuti. Our Baggage was carried by horses, who were well suited to most of the terrain, except the boulder fields, which were pretty much everywhere, and difficult to avoid.
Camp at Chaanz Meadow
Our headline peak, Tatakuti, didn’t go quite to plan, due largely to unfortunate decision making.
In trying to avoid the notoriously loose rock, we opted to reach a lower part of the ridge via the glacier. Rather than explore the possibility of a traverse to where we needed to be, a hasty decision was made to descend to another glacier behind. A difficult descent on loose shale, and exhausting re-ascent meant that most were timed- out, but two did make it to the summit, (and were disappointed to find graffiti on the rocks). The descent of a loose and icy gully was tricky, but everyone made it down safely.
Walking out from Tatakooti
A rest was scheduled for the next day, but four made it to the top of Hundru 4200m, a neighboring peak, with a fine solid scramble up a ridge to the summit.
Another day’s trek took us to the equally picturesque Chaskinar camp, from where two other summits were bagged, the Cairngormesque Bodanglan 4248m, and the more dramatic point 4400m
Chaskinar Valley camp, the tents can be seen by the bottom river bend
Two more days trekking took us to Bargah Maidan, ?? and the end of the trek at Yousmarg .
The trek route seemed to me to be an unnatural line, skirting around the mountains over numerous low ridges, then following a valley up into a picturesque camp, then back out again. A more direct route through the mountains would probably work, but the boulder fields would rule out the use of horses for the baggage.
A couple of camps, from where we could access summits, might possibly have been a better option in retrospect.
Still, we got 5 summits between us, more than we expected, the weather was lovely throughout, and we had a few days to recover, enjoying the fleshpots, and amazing houseboats at Srinigar.
We had just walked in, and George was leading Caruso VS4b whilst I had ab’ed down beside him to get a good shot of his lay-backing style, when it started to rain. Even worse, he refused point blank to layback! “Why not?”. ” Don’t want to”. Fair enough I suppose, so we sheltered in the cave until the rain went over.
There was a route beside the cave that I had cleaned, sort of, but I didn’t want to lead, (for reasons that will become apparent), so cunningly I pointed the hand jam crack at the bottom, knowing that George could never walk past a good hand jam, (or any hand jam). All went well until he came across the big loose rock, the mucky jammed blocks above, and the final vegetated fissure, into which you have to slide sideways. He took it well. ” Do you want to second this Alan?” “No thanks, you are alright, Ronan’s there already”.
I had climbed nothing at the stage, having been too taken up with management duties, so led a nice juggy severe over two bulges, seconded by Ronan, which I called Argony Piper. George then led The Dutchman, seconded by Ronan which he thought excellent, and then I led another crackline I had cleaned, Self Isolation Blues, seconded George and Ronan. Back out over the rocks to the beach and home.
Great weekend was had by all, despite the weather not living up to the high pressure expectations.
On Friday morning we met at the Yeats Tavern, that is Neil, Dennis, Damien, Andrew, Sarah, Columba, Martin B, Gertrude, Brian, Margaret and self, and we were joined for the day by Ivan, Valli, Anneka and 2 girls- Pam and another Margaret (when I say ‘girls’ you must understand that when you are my age,’ girls’ refers to any female not currently in a residential home)*. Martin Neil, Damien and Dennis took off for Pinnacle Gully, Brian, Gertrude and Margaret T for Lough Gill, whilst the rest of us made our way up Kings Gully to the opening of the fissure called Annach re Mor. (We were joined by Keith, who had just arrived by motorbike). All went to plan for a change, and we had just finished Annach re Mor as the Pinnacle party were starting. Some of our party then finished with the upper fissure at Altnasomething, a narrow passage with a step ladder exit.
*I forgot to mention that Eugene made a brief appearance in the car park.
Annach Re Mor
Pinnacle Gully
The Connemara National Park hostel was as comfortable as ever, although part of the common area was closed. On Saturday morning the weekenders set off for Bencorrbeg, dropping Andrew off just outside Letterfrack. A long rocky climb up into the mist took us, after a number of drop outs and false summits, eventually to Ben Corr, where we had hoped to meet up with Andrew. Unfortunately, he had passed through over an hour before, having run over Knockbrack, Benbrack, Muckanaght, Benbaun, and Bencolladuff. We followed him to the top of Derryclare, then down the rocky and slippery east ridge. When I got back to the hostel I heard that Damien, Andrew and Neil were already in the pub watching the Ulster game. After 7 hours on the hill, sprinting was not an option, but I was able to manage a fast hobble to join them, and Damien, ever the gentleman, put a pint of stout in front of me. Such Bliss. Ulster were out of sight when I went out to buy a newspaper. When I came back there were only 3 points in it!
Great meal across the road, with first class trad music. Everyone celebrating the first lockdown free night out, and we finished off with a song or two in the hostel, thanks mainly to Sarah and Gertrude. Damien, who rumour has it can sing, had snuck aff to bed.
Sunday is normally a short leisurely walk followed by a longer less leisurely drive home, and this was no exception. The walk wasn’t that leisurely up Diamond hill, but the path is excellent, and something similar would be appropriate for Errigal, I think.
And so it came to pass that Margaret Q, Eugene and myself gathered at Bamba’s coffee van at the crown, the plan being to reacquaint ourselves with two of Malin Head’s classics, then paddle out to Glashedy island in the afternoon. Dawson’s Diedre came first, and we used the corner on the left at the top as an exit, which is much better and safer. Then we did The Cutting Lizard, (or Lizard Edge), at a gallop as Eugene had a date, and had to be away for one o’clock. More coffee at the van, then off to Carrickabraghy where Derek was trying to squeeze into his wet suit and awaiting our arrival. The paddle across was almost flat calm, and we continued around the island, through some reefs, and suddenly we could hear singing, quite harmonious, and my first thought was, “What are the Henry Girls doing out here?” It was the Glashedy Seal Voice Choir, and they broke off rehearsals to come and have a look at us. After circumnavigating the island, we beached on some stones, and this is where we met the giraffe. Those of you that have read Conan Doyle’s ‘The Lost World’ will be aware that species survive and indeed evolve in remote places cut off from the rest of the world (like Glashedy) and such was the case with the Glashedy Giraffe. Well suited to the geography, it can stand on the beach and graze the vegetation from the top off the cliffs. The GG has evolved a distinctive eroded head due to continuous and voracious attack by nesting sea birds who disapprove of its activities. In the interests of anthropology, I decided to bring a specimen home, tied a bit of fisherman’s rope around its neck, and towed it behind the kayak. Not entirely sure whether it was swimming or just walking, but when it emerged from the sea it caused a bit of a stir with the tourists. Getting it to stay on the roof rack was more of a problem, as every time I got two legs on, the other two were off. Good thing there were no low bridges on the way back to Culdaff. It seems to be settling in well here, clearing the moss off the roof, and I have plans to use it for crag cleaning at Glenagivne and elsewhere
Owey Island. 2021 Midsummer camping, Kayaking and climbing trip.
Blessed were we with the weather this year. On Friday morning, Dan collected our gear (and Margaret) and Valli, Ivan and I kayaked across to the island. After a leisurely morning Ivan and I climbed in the Black Spink, I led Kobatron, a nice severe, then Bikini Bottom, a sandbag at HS, nearer 4c we thought, then Ivan led the route that I thought was a first ascent last year, which turned out to be a variation of An Finka Dink E1 5c. This has a harder start (which we avoided, as we started a bit higher) but goes left of the crux crack of An Finka Dink to finish with Kobatron. I called it something beginning with Bh….
Andrew and Laura joined us in the evening, then Anthony, PJ, Nigel, and surprisingly Marty (in his electric kayak) in the morning. We top roped Norkapp as a warm up, 400K, then did the usual paddle for those who hadn’t done it before. After lunch, 6 of us had a grand tango* on ‘Taming the Dragon’, a spectacular Diff on an accessible sea stack (*or tangle perhaps more appropriate).
Margaret took photos from the cliff top.
Back to the Black Spink for a final route or two sans PJ, Anthony and Nigel, (who had got lost on the 10 minute walk). Marty led Bh seconded by Laura and Andrew dragged me and Ivan up Kobatron again. Beer, barby, and bed before dawn. The highlight being the mackerel donated by Charles and wonderfully cooked on the fire by Valli, and of course Marty’s singing, duly accompanied by me on bouzouki, usually in a different key.
In the morning there was talk of a big wind a comin, so a hasty departure was made to Cruit.
Thanks again to our great friend Dan, ever the gentleman, who did everything he could for us.
Fair Head, fair do’s George. The Nordies got their first outing post- lockdown to the Small Crag, Fair Head, hosted by our chair George Carleton. We just squeezed inside the 15 person limit, due to two going for a walk and 2 choosing to boulder, so there was a great turnout. The sun shone, but it was ‘freezin-as- usual’ in north Antrim in the shade, with an east wind. Hardy folk, they who live there, and the grades are on the hardy side too. George arranged different abs, so we were able to spread the number of climbers across the crag, (not that any virus would have a chance in the constant wind). Great to see so many folk I havent been able to see in ages.
After 4 days camping in Knoydart, bagging Margaret’s last couple of Corbies in that area (we were joined by PJ, Anthonius and the ‘Bessie Boys’ – fresh from success on the Aonach Eagagh,- for a couple of nights) we headed up to Elphin, and kayaked into the base of Suilven from the east. The Bessie Boys walked in from the west, having been forced to abandon their mountain bikes early on. Beautiful spot to camp were it not for the midgies.
Beinn Bhuidhe, Knoydart
We were up early and climbed both peaks, the eastern top being more dramatic, and then paddled out, against both the flow and the wind. Never again. The fact that a rucksack was dragging in the water, and the boat appeared to be slowly sinking, didn’t help. PJ-ANT and the Bessie Boys headed even further north to climb Ben Hope, the most northern Munro, and we made our way south to meet up with Finbarr, who had been blown away by Blaven on 2 consecutive days. After knocking off another Corbie at Killilan with Margaret, we went to Skye to climb ‘The Spur’, a ** scramble up Sgurr An Fheadain, and the Forcan Ridge on the Saddle the following day (last time I did that was 1977 with Brendan Twomey and Freezie Lee).
Forcan Ridge
A rest day in Fort William, then Curved Ridge on the Buachaille with Finbarr and Ant, while Margaret and PJ got another Corbie in Glen Etive. Then we headed for Inverness, PJ and Ant homewards, and Finbarr to the Ring of Steall- the last of his objectives. He did it in fairly adverse conditions in 5.5 hours, then broke his leg on the way down, and drove home. He is now in plaster in Dungiven.
Paddling in to Suilven
Meanwhile, we did Wee Wyvis, another Corbie with Jimmy, then went to Braemar and got another 3, totalling 9 for the trip. Herself well pleased, me knackered.
